In some cases, there may not be a shock available with both the compressed and extended length you need so you will have to decide on which dimension to sacrifice or consider moving your shock mounts. Even if your suspension only cycles 12”, if you can fit a 14” or even a 16" shock, then that is what you should shoot for. When choosing your shock size you always want to go with the largest shock you can fit on the vehicle that will still let your suspension reach full compression. Step 3: Determine the Appropriate Shock Size The rule of thumb with shocks is that you always want to go with the largest shock you can fit because you can always limit your down travel with limit straps and you gain stability, more oil capacity for better cooling, more shaft overlap at full extension, and room for growth if you ever choose to go bigger down the road. The higher your upper shock mounts are, the more stability you will have and the larger the shock you will be able to fit. If you haven't placed your upper or lower shock mounts yet, then focus on putting your upper shock mounts up as high as you can put them. In any case, you will want to find the minimum distance from your upper to your lower shock mounts at any position. Your limiting factor could be the differential hitting the oil pan, the tires hitting your fenders, your driveshaft angle, cv-shaft angle (IFS), or your suspension binding. For solid axle vehicles this will need to be done in the horizontal, right tuck, and left tuck positions. To measure your compressed lengths, move your suspension to the full compression position. With performance off-road shocks, your compression stroke is always your limiting factor. If you do not have the proper equipment to do this safely, bring the vehicle to a professional.** **All measurements should be performed with the springs removed and the vehicle safely supported.
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